The story of how Chenin Blanc changed the direction of my life

Heading off to CDG airport, Paris, early in the evening in late June 1999, I had no idea my life would take a new direction. The Air France flight to Cape Town was delayed until the next morning, and hotel accommodation was arranged. The next morning, when I was back at the airport and checking in, the good news was that I had been upgraded to business class, as was a group of South African wine producers who attended Vinexpo, Bordeaux.

Serendipitously, seated next to me was Irina von Holdt, an early Chenin champion. Incidentally, an informal meeting, chaired by Irina, was held that same year on 12 October 1999 and led to the official formation of the Chenin Blanc Association the following year. In fact, it was a few years earlier, in 1995, that Irina had introduced her iconic Blue White Chenin Blanc, so named as it was presented unusually in a blue bottle.

After conversing about Chenin, several glasses of champagne, and convivial discussions with the South African producers, I applied for my first wine course the very next day. Within a year, I completely changed careers, from the insurance industry to the world of wine.

Fast-forward a few years to 2009. After early retirement and several wine courses, a friend asked me to take notes on her behalf at an EXCO meeting of the Chenin Blanc Association. During the meeting, it was mentioned that the Manager had resigned. Without thinking, I raised my hand and mentioned that I was available for this job. The following week, I was appointed, and an incredible wine journey began. Since 2009, I have thus worked closely with the formidable Mr. Chenin, Ken Forrester,

Chenin Blanc has a long and very colourful history in South Africa. The history of wine in South Africa is also the story of Chenin Blanc, from workhorse to highly sought-after varietal. Its versatility, many styles, food-friendly nature, and ageability make it an ideal variety to love and promote locally and internationally.

After joining the Chenin Blanc Association, my travels abroad focused on the Loire Valley. This is also a story of friendship with the late Evelyne de Pontbriand, owner of Domaine du Closel in Savenniéres. This collaboration led to involvement in the Academie du Chenin, the Academy of Chenin, and the first International Chenin Congress held in Angers, France, in July 2019. The second Congress was hosted in South Africa in November 2022, and I also attended the third Congress in July 2015 in Angers, now called the Chenin Celebration.   

The many Chenin research projects since 2010, in collaboration with Stellenbosch University, have been another highlight for me, making Chenin the most studied grape in South Africa. This also led to co-authoring a chapter on South African Chenin for the book “Le Val de Loire Terres du Chenin”, published in 2017. A huge achievement was the development of the Chenin Aroma Wheel and the multilingual aroma wheel in isiXhosa, isiZulu and Shona. We thus co-created, with a group of speakers of each of these languages, a practical tool to aid in recognising and appreciating the aromas of South African Chenin blanc wines.  

Furthermore, the Loire producers have given me special acknowledgements, including “L’Ordre de la Chantepleure” by the Vouvray producers in 2019 and the title of ”Officier” by the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Sacavin by the Anjou producers in 2022. In 2024, I was also honoured with the Wine Personality of the Year award 2024 by The Institute of Cape Wine Masters (ICWM) in recognition of my contribution to the wine industry, particularly my work with the Chenin Blanc Association.

Wine Personality of the Year (2024)

What does the future hold?  A book of South African Chenin remains to be written. Perhaps this will be my final ode to this very special grape variety?